Mārahau

Mārahau is the southern entrance to the Abel Tasman Coast Track — the point where the walk actually starts, at a large Department of Conservation car park at the north end of the settlement. From here it is about four hours and 12 kilometres to Anchorage Hut, and three to five days to Wainui at the far end.

It is very small: 249 people at the 2023 census, roughly half the size of Kaiteriteri, about 19 kilometres from Motueka and 67 from Nelson, an hour and a half's drive. What is here is geared to the track — places to eat, accommodation, kayak operators, water taxis and horse trekking. For anything beyond that, Motueka is the town.

The tidal range here is among the largest in the country, which is why the water taxis leave from dry land, towed out on trailers behind tractors. The same tides govern the walk itself: the Awaroa Inlet can be crossed only from an hour and a half before low tide to two hours after, in daylight, and there is no alternative track around it.

Mārahau is also the main sea-kayaking base for the park. Operators split between guided trips and freedom hire, and the rules differ between them — some restrict how far north rental kayaks may go, set minimum group sizes and age limits, and close freedom hire over winter altogether. Every hut and campsite in the park must be booked in advance, all year round.